IMPORTANT INFORMATION
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY


2001
ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING SEMINAR

Alaska-Denali Guiding Inc. is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve

DATE OF EXPEDITION: (10 days)
May 5 - 14
June 4 - 13

July 2 - 11
Expedition imited to 9 students / 3 guides

COST OF EXPEDITION: $1,500.00 per student

DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: $ 500.00

BALANCE AMOUNT: $1,000.00 due 90 days prior to start date of trip.

COST INCLUDES:
Guides- 3 per 9 students
Van transportation between Anchorage and Talkeeta r/t
Flight to the glacier r/t
Camp food and cooking equipment
Team camping equipment
Team technical climbing gear
Medical kit, repair kit, emergency radio

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Food or lodging in Talkeetna or Anchorage
Personal Equipment
Rental equipment
Hot or cold drinks
Cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
Cost due to weather delays (hotels, food etc.)

VAN SERVICE:
Alaska-Denali Guiding,Inc. provides van service between Anchorage and
Talkeetna.
Date of transportation: 8:00 a.m. the day the trip starts. Return
transport arranged after the trip.
Place to meet : 7:45 a.m. at the Snowshoe Inn, 826 K St., Anchorage
8:00 a.m. at the Earth B & B, 1001 W 12th Ave., Anchorage

2001
ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING SEMINAR

The heavily glaciated mountains that surround Mt. McKinley offer an excellent environment and inspirational setting to learn and hone mountaineering techniques. The Alaska Mountaineering Seminar takes place on the glaciers of the Alaska Range that descend from Mt. McKinley. This comprehensive ten day course, instructed by Mt. McKinley guides, will introduce students to the mountaineering skills required to climb safely on Denali's glaciers and snow and ice routes. The goal of this seminar is to assist each team member in developing their skills through professional guidance, personal instruction, and practical hands-on experience. It is ideal training for anyone wishing to gain more experience before attempting a summit expedition on Mt. McKinley.

CURRICULUM
Participants will meet in Anchorage and drive to Talkeetna on the ADG, Inc van. The instructors will meet you at the ADG,Inc. workshop and begin the day with an individual equipment check followed by gear rentals, adjusting crampons and prussiks and taking care of final student paperwork. You will also be packing your own trip lunches. The team will gather for a picnic lunch at the ADG,Inc. workshop before flying to the glacier in ski equipped 3 passenger Cessna 185's. The flight is a stunning look at the rugged topography of the Alaska Range. The birds-eye view from the small bush plane gives you a sneak preview of the mountains that will be explored during the seminar.

A base camp will be established at the landing site. The first few days will be spent in or near base camp learning glacier snow camping techniques, climbing knots, harness systems, rope care, and rope management for glacier travel. Each student will learn the proper techniques for placing snow and ice anchors, belaying , ice axe and cramponing skills, crevasse rescue procedures, rappelling and how to ascend fixed ropes. As individual skills are refined, emphasis will be placed on combining these techniques into comprehensive systems that will allow the team to travel and climb safely. During the remainder of the expedition the team will be traveling through the mountains,route finding, evaluating hazards and putting mountaineering techniques to use on varied terrain. Each day will build on your knowledge and confidence in accessing avalanche conditions, dealing with inclement weather, setting snow anchors, a variety of climbing techniques, snow camping and team work; all vital parts of any expedition.

The curriculum of all the seminars will be the same. During the May seminar it will be much colder so those in need of cold weather experience are recommended to attend this seminar. The goal of these courses is to give our students the opportunity to learn and then use these new mountaineering skills in an Alaska scale mountaineering environment. It is not summit oriented. This seminar is best suited for those who want to learn the unique skills necessary to be well prepared for a future climb of Mt.McKinley or other glaciated, big mountains of the world.

GUIDES
This seminar is led by a team of 3 guides and limited to 9 students. The senior seminar instructors also guide Mt. McKinley expeditions and can offer excellent suggestions about preparing for a future climb. All Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc. guides are accomplished mountaineers and experienced instructors of mountaineering techniques. They have training in mountain rescue, avalanche safety and emergency medical training. You will enjoy their amiable personalities and their insightful stories about climbing in Alaska. See our web page for more detailed information about ADG,Inc. guides.

RECOMMENDED READING
Books that will familiarize you with the Denali area and mountaineering techniques are: "Climbing Ice" by Yvon Chouinard, "Freedom of the Hills" by The Seattle Mountaineers, "Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue" by Andy Selters and "Mt. McKinley" by Bradford Washburn, "Denali's West Buttress" by Colby Coombs and " The Pioneer Climbs" by T. Moore

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE & TRAINING
To participate in this seminar you must be conditioned for rigorous, 8 hour periods of snowshoeing and climbing ice and snow slopes. We require that participants have previous week long backpacking experience and are in excellent physical condition. We will be traveling across crevassed glaciers , climbing over steep snow passes, and crossing areas of glacial moraine with packs that weigh up to 55 lbs. This is not an easy trip. Backpacking experience and rigorous training are needed to be prepared for mountaineering in the Alaska Range. Condition aerobically by fast walking, jogging or biking over hilly terrain for a minimum of 1 1/2 hours per day, 4 - 5 days per week. In addition to this, do endurance weight training every week and always include warm-up and cool-down exercises. The importance of training with a full pack on your back cannot be over emphasized. Specificity of training for any activity is the key. If you are going to backpack and climb across rugged terrain, then you must train for it by carrying a loaded pack up and down hills, through grass, in soft sand or snow. Get off the sidewalk and out of the gym!!! As often as possible, climb, hike or ski with a pack on for an entire day or overnight or longer trips. Wearing 2 lb. ankle weights (only while walking) will condition your legs for the additional weight of boots and snowshoes. Vary your routine to prevent overuse injuries. Learn to push yourself past the point of being comfortable, without injuring yourself. Traveling in the mountains often requires that one move in less-than-ideal conditions and this takes equal amounts of mental and physical stamina.

LOGISTICS
We will meet you in Anchorage (see van transportation info on cover sheet) and drive directly to Talkeetna. This first day is outlined under "Curriculum". If weather permits the team will fly to the glacier that same evening.

Climbing conditions and weather will dictate your actual return date. Arrangements will be made by the ADG staff in Talkeetna for post trip accommodations and return transportation to Anchorage. We recommend that you make your return airline reservation with 3 days leeway after the finish date of the expedition. If unsuitable weather keeps the team from flying out of base camp as scheduled , these extra buffer days can eliminate the mental stress and financial problems associated with missing your flight home. If we do get out on schedule you can usually fly standby if you wish to return home immediately.

TRAVEL INSURANCE
We recommend that you buy trip cancellation insurance immediately after paying your deposit. This insurance can protect you if you are unable to join the expedition for personal or family medical reasons. One company that sells this type of insurance is Access America at phone # 800-284-8300 or check with your travel agent. ADG, Inc. is not responsible for your choice of whom to buy insurance through or if you choose to buy it at all. We cannot refund either your deposit or final payment . Please read the reservation and payment policy on the 2001 Schedule carefully.

STORAGE
ADG, Inc. has a storage area for leaving your extra gear . Make sure any baggage that you are leaving at our office is clearly marked with your name. If you drive to Talkeetna, you can leave your car at ADG, Inc. or at the air taxi service parking area.

HOW TO APPLY
The easiest way to apply for an expedition is to submit an application directly from our web site. We can also email, fax or mail you an application. Please return the completed application to our office. After being accepted as a team member ADG must receive a deposit before we can reserve a position for you on the expedition. We will then send you a complete packet of detailed information relavent to team members.

We wish to work closely with every expediton member. If there is any aspect of the expedition that you need more details please phone us at 907-733-2649.

 

ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT LIST

The equipment on this list is required in order to participate on this
expedition. Make no substitutions without first checking with
Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc.. Please contact us with questions.
* equipment available to rent

FEET:
Socks - polypropylene or wool, 3 pair each inner and outer
Boots - double plastic mountaineering boots
Gaitors - make sure they fit around your climbing boot
Overboots - for May trip only
Booties - insulated with polar guard (optional)
LOWER BODY:
Underwear - polypropylene or nylon, 3 pair
Long Johns - lightweight polypropylene, 2 pair
Long Johns - expedition weight , 1 pair
Shorts - nylon, 1 pair (optional)
Gortex pants - full length side zips are needed
Insulated overpants - for May trip only
UPPER BODY:
T-shirt - polypropylene, or cotton/poly blend - 1
Turtle neck - polypropylene or capilene with a zip neck - 2
Expedition weight polypropylene or capilene top - 1
Pile, bunting, or polar guard jacket - 1
Down parka - May trip only
Gortex wind parka with hood
HANDS:
Gloves - polypropylene (expedition or bunting weight) or wool, 2 pair
Mittens - pile or wool, 2 pair in May, 1 pair in June and July
Shelled Over mitts - gortex, 1 pair
Insulated Over mitts - May trip only
HEAD:
Ski hat - wool or bunting, 1
Sun visor or baseball cap
Balaclava - May trip only
SLEEPING GEAR:
Polar guard or down sleeping bag comfortable down to - 20 F. in May, 25 F. in July
*Pads - 2 closed cell foam pads or one pad and one Therm-A-Rest
PACK:
*5500 cu. in. capacity frame or internal frame pack with outside pockets
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
*Ascender - 1
*Chest harness
*Crampons - for May trip, make sure they securely fit with overboots on.
*Gear sling
*Helmet
*Ice axe
*Locking carabiners - 2 D and 3 pear shaped
Perlon rope 6mm - 40 ft . / tubular webbing 11/16" - 8 ft / Tubular
webbing 1" - 8 ft.
*Regular carabiners - 10
*Seat harness

GLACIER TRAVEL
* Snowshoes with claw binding- the model is determined by body size
*Ski poles with removable baskets if possible
PERSONALS
Accessory straps and side pockets
Baby wipes - 12
Bandana, cotton
Bowl (3 cup) , spoon, insulated mug
Butane lighter
Garbage plastic bags - 4 heavy duty lg.
Goggles - May trip only
Nylon cord - 15 ft.
Pocket knife
Pee bottle
Sled bag - 16" x 40"
Stuff sacks - 9" x 15", 2 for lunches
Sun glasses - 2 pair with nose sun shields and side visors
Toilet paper - 1 roll
Tooth brush
Water bottle - 2
FOOD
Drinks for 10 days (ADG provides soup)
Hard candy
Lunch treats, 2 - 1 lb. packages(ADG provides a substantial lunch)
Spice kit for dinners
MEDICAL
Antibiotic - 1 cycle (prescription)
Aspirin - 40 tablets
Tylenol 3 - 8 tablets (prescription)
Moleskin and Tape for blisters
Sunscreen - high ultra-violet block for lips and face
OPTIONAL
Book
Camera and film
Crazy Creek chair
Foot powder - travel size
Ear plugs and eye covers
Journal and pen
Pack cover
Thermos

ALASKA-DENALI GUIDING, INC. RENTALS - cost is for the 10 day seminar

Ascender $5.00 Over bag $20.00
Backpack 20.00 Over mitts 10.00
Carabiner 1.00 each Overpants 20.00
Crampons 10.00 Pads 2.00
Gear Sling 3.00 Parka 20.00
Harness, chest 5.00 Ski poles 5.00
Harness, seat 5.00 Snow shoes 25.00
Ice Axe 10.00

We will send you a detailed explanation of equipment and retailers and a Participant Information(PI) sheet after we receive your deposit. Please reserve rentals on the PI sheet.

Remember that you will be carrying all your personal equipment plus your share of the community equipment. Please keep your gear as compact and light as possible. Please mark all personal equipment (especially carabiners).

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Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc.
P.O. Box 566 Talkeetna, Alaska 99676 (907) 733-2649 Fax (907) 733-1362

Updated 2/14/00