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Important Information

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2001 MT. MCKINLEY
CLASSIC SUMMIT AND TRAVERSE CLIMB

Alaska-Denali Guiding Inc. is an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park and Preserve

DATE OF EXPEDITION: June 1 - 26, 2001 (26 days)

COST OF EXPEDITION: $3,800.00

DEPOSIT DUE TO RESERVE A POSITION: $ 1,000.00

BALANCE AMOUNT: Due 90 days prior to start date of trip.

COST INCLUDES:
Guides- 3 per 9 clients
Van transportation to Talkeetna r/t
Flight to base camp
Camp food and cooking equipment
Team camping equipment
Team technical climbing gear
Medical kit, repair kit, emergency radio

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE:
Food or lodging in Talkeetna or Anchorage
Personal Equipment
Rental equipment
Hot or cold drinks
Cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
Nat'l Park Service registration fee
Cost due to weather delays (hotels, food etc.)

VAN SERVICE:
Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc. provides van service between Anchorage and Talkeetna.
Date of transportation: The day the trip starts. Return transport arranged after the trip.
Place to meet : 7:45 a.m. Snowshoe Inn, 826 K St., Anchorage 8:00 a.m. Earth B & B, 1001 W 12th Ave., Anchorage

TRAVERSE ITINERARY

HISTORY
Mt. McKinley (20,320') is the highest mountain in North America. The natives on the north side of the mountain revered it by calling it Denali, "The High One". Today Denali is the name routinely used by Alaskans. This majestic mountain dominates over a profusion of glaciers, ridges and magnificent peaks and is unsurpassed in its scenic mountain beauty.

The early pioneers in Denali's climbing history were explorers and gold miners who unraveled the intricate and formidable approaches to find a route to the summit. In 1910 a group of Sourdough miners struck out from Fairbanks to climb the slightly lower north peak. In 1913 Archdeacon Stuck's team climbed the same route via Karstens Ridge, making the first ascent of the higher south peak.
The West Buttress route of Mt. McKinley was pioneered by Bradford Washburn's team in 1951. From the Kahiltna Glacier base camp it is 13,000 vertical feet and 18 miles to the summit! The West Buttress is the most popular route on Mt. McKinley because of the fly-in access and it is the least difficult route on the mountain. This has mistakenly been taken to mean that it is an easy climb. It is not. It is a mountaineer's route with high altitude, arctic cold, unpredictable weather, changing snow conditions, crevasses, and steep icy slopes to contend with.

The Mt. McKinley Classic Summit and Traverse Climb is a unique challenge to climb the highest peak in North America while traveling over the crest of the Alaska Range. The team will ascend Mt. McKinley via the West Buttress and descend the Karstens Ridge route. Both routes involve snow and ice climbing of slopes of up to 45 degrees and extensive glacier travel. A traverse on Mt. McKinley is a tremendous challenge for people that have the depth of mountaineering experience and attitude to enjoy the rigors of expedition life.

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE
The Mt. McKinley Traverse and Summit Climb is a very difficult, high altitude, cold climb suited for the few individuals that have the background and drive to find this a challenge they will enjoy. To be eligible participants must be in excellent physical condition, must have climbed numerous mountaineering routes that require roped travel, winter snow camping and the competent use of an ice axe and crampons. Knots must be second nature and all team members must have a firm understanding of belaying and using fixed line. It is important that each person is experienced in executing an ice axe self arrest . You must be able to climb in balance with a heavy pack ,while wearing crampons in variable snow conditions. Applicants must have a depth of climbing experience that shows that they are well within their capability to carry very heavy packs on steep exposed slopes. Team members must be well versed in snow camping skills and be able to be efficient and helpful in camp.

Each applicant is personally interviewed by the Directors of ADG, Inc. to confirm that every team member has a clear understanding of the time commitment involved in training and equipment preparations . We strive to ensure that everyone fully understands all aspects of the climb.

It should be understood that , even though this is a guided expedition, it is imperative that each team member have this previous mountaineering experience. All climbers will draw heavily on their past experience. If it becomes apparent to the guides that a team member is not able to participate fully in the climb, i.e. carry their share of community gear, keep the reasonable pace set by the guides, participate in camp chores, or take care of themselves in the cold , this person, for the well being of the team, will be escorted back to base camp. Team members must know the following knots prior to the expedition: the figure - 8, double fisherman, water knot, prussik, clove hitch and the munters hitch. Each person must be familiar with belaying techniques and the Z pulley system used for crevasse rescue.

TEAM WORK
Each member of the expedition is an integral part of the team. Everyone will be expected to carry loads, set up camp and share in the cooking details. You must remember that you are not in this alone. You may be in a tent confined by high winds or white-outs, for days at a time, with two other people. This can be one of the great challenges of expeditionary climbing. Adaptability to the situation at hand is essential. If your chief guide finds you physically or mentally unprepared to meet the rigors of the expedition, he/she reserves the right to determine that you are unprepared for the climb and see that you are safely returned to base camp.

TALKEETNA
All team members will arrive in Talkeetna by 10:30 am. on the day which the expedition begins. The first day will be spent in Talkeetna with your guides. You will be very nusy doing a personal equipment check, receiving rental equipment, adjusting prussiks and crampons, preparing your own lunches, registering with the National Park Service and discussing the climb.

The team will spend the first night in Talkeetna. Chinook Winds cabin rental is next door to ADG,Inc. and we recommend you share a cabin with a few other team members. You can also reserve a private cabin or a room at another hotel. Weather permitting the team will be ready to fly to base camp the next morning. Our plans and decisions now become dominated by the weather. It is possible to be delayed in Talkeetna, or at base camp on the return flight, for days on end. The planes cannot fly unless there is good visibility. We have had to wait out weather in Talkeetna and base camp for up to 5 days. Most of the time the teams get out on time but you must be mentally and financially prepared to handle delays if this situation arises. You are responsible for your food and accommodations if our depature is delayed.

BASE CAMP
The team will fly from Talkeetna to the 7,200' level of the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier in a ski equipped airplane. At base camp your guides will spend one day reviewing the general procedures for setting up camp, caring for yourself and your equipment, glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. These skills will be used daily as we travel the glaciers, ascend the mountain and set up camps.

THE CLIMB
We will ascend the West Buttress route in traditional expedition style, relaying loads, establishing camps and climbing slowly enough for proper acclimatization. Moving from camp to camp will be dictated by the weather, snow conditions and the health of the team. We will be traveling roped up, in teams of 3 - 4 climbers to safeguard against the possibility of crevasse falls or slips on exposed slopes.

The first nine miles of the route is up the Kahiltna Glacier to 11,000'. While relaying our gear from camp to camp we will be wearing snowshoes, carrying packs that average 50 lbs. and pulling sleds that average 40 lbs. Camps I - III will be placed at approximately 7,900', 9,500', and 11,000'. Above 11,000' the terrain steepens, requiring the use of crampons and ice axe. Up to this point all the scenery has been seemingly above us but now the lowlands to the west of the Alaska Range are visible. At 13,200' we climb around Windy Corner and the views are even more stunning. Camp IV (14,200') is in a large basin relatively sheltered from high winds. We often arrive at Camp IV on the 10th day. We will spend several days here acclimatizing to the altitude, resting and going over more climbing techniques, including reviewing how to safely ascend fixed ropes . Between 15,500' and the crest of the West Buttress (16,200') we will climb clipped to a fixed rope to safeguard our movements on this 40 - 45 degree icy slope. Camp V will be placed at the top of the fixed rope at an altitude of 16,200'. From here we follow the narrow ridge of the West Buttress, climbing on snow and weaving between granite boulders.

High camp on the West Buttress is located at 17,200' where the ridge becomes broad and flat (approx... day 15). The vista of the multitude of mountains and glaciers that make up the Alaska Range is magnificent, but this is a harsh environment to live in. The weather, with high winds and intense cold, coupled with the rarefied air make camp chores and climbing very demanding. It is at these high elevations where everything you've learned is tested; mental drive, pacing, hydration, and dealing with the cold. Team work will become very important to your safety and success on reaching the summit.'

When the weather is suitable, we will begin our climb to the summit via Denali Pass and Archdeacon's Tower. On the way to the summit we will leave a cache at 18'200 ft. to pick up when we begin our decent down the Harper Glacier. Summit day is somewhere between day 16 and 22 and is approximately 12 hours of very arduous climbing. We cannot guarantee you the summit. That is the challenge of mountaineering. We will supply you with the professional leadership which will give you the best possible chance to stand on the top of North America's highest peak After our summit day we will climb back to Denali Pass before descending the Harper Glacier to Brownes Tower (14,600') on the northeast side of Mt. McKinley. From Browne Tower we descend the elegant snow crest of Karstens Ridge for 3,500 ft. down to the Muldrow Glacier. Down climbing this exposed, steep ridge with heavy packs (70 - 80 lbs.) is one of the most difficult aspects of the climb. The broken up ice of the Muldrow Glacier begins at 11,000' and we will follow its crevassed course for ten miles to McGonagall Pass (5,720'). At the pass we will unrope, leave the ice behind, and enter the green of summer. This is a fabulous moment for everyone.

We will walk across nineteen miles of tundra and wade several rivers before reaching the Denali National Park road at Wonder Lake. Your pack can easily weigh 80 - 100 lbs. on this part of the expedition. You must be physically capable of carrying this pack weight. Denali's summit, 25 miles away and more than 18,000' above us, dominates the southern horizon. We will take the park shuttle bus to headquarters and then return to Talkeetna by van.

ACCLIMATIZATION
We gain altitude slowly enough so that everyone should acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. Occasionally a person does not acclimatize properly and is susceptible to pulmonary and/or cerebral edema. These are serious life threatening conditions that require immediate descent. All precautions will be taken to ensure for your safety. This expedition is 26 days in length, which normally allows enough time to acclimatize, sit out periods of bad weather and successfully reach the summit.

WEATHER
The weather on Mt. McKinley will dictate our every move and it is one thing we can not change. There is no predicting which month or which trip will have the best weather. Storms hit at any time of year and sometimes with unrelenting ferocity. Mt. McKinley is only 200 miles south of the arctic circle at 63 degrees north latitude. The climbing season has witnessed temperatures of - 50 degrees and 100 mph winds. The weather is unpredictable and can be extremely severe or it can be calm and clear. Often it is somewhere in between. The right equipment, patience and a mountaineers attitude are essential prerequisites to be able to appreciate seeing Denali in all her various moods. ( Also see the Talkeetna section for local weather possibilities.)

EQUIPMENT
The arctic conditions encountered on Denali make it essential that you have proper clothing and equipment. We require that you have all of the equipment on the ADG, Inc. equipment list. Make no substitutions without first checking with us. ADG, Inc. has equipment for rent. Please reserve this equipment on the Participant Information sheet no later than 90 days prior to the climb. Make sure that you are familiar with your personal equipment and clothing and that it fits properly.

When you arrive in Talkeetna your guide will do a personal equipment check to ensure that you have all necessary clothing and equipment. Do not bring any non- essential items. Do not plan to buy anything in Talkeetna. Remember that you will be carrying your personal equipment plus a fair share of the food, fuel, camping and climbing equipment. Every ounce is critical!! Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc. will supply all of the community equipment for the expedition. This includes climbing ropes and hardware, tents, cooking kits, emergency radio, first aid kit, repair kit, snow saws, shovels, sleds, fuel and food.

GUIDES
ADG,Inc. has been guiding on Denali since 1984 and has safely led over 50 expeditions, including 16 traverses of the mountain. Each expedition is led by a team of 3 guides and limited to 9 clients. All Alaska-Denali guides are accomplished mountaineers with Mt. McKinley experience . We will be posting specific information about your guides on our web page and will be mailing this information to you.

This is not a trip where you can expect to learn basic mountaineering skills from your guides . The guides are the expedition leaders and consultants with the mountain expertise necessary to deal with high altitude related problems, weather and to set the pace necessary to have a successful trip. All guides have mountain rescue, avalanche safety and emergency medical training. Their knowledge of the natural and climbing history of the area and personal stories of living, traveling and climbing in Alaska will add immensely to your trip.

TRAINING
On any mountaineering expedition there are factors which are completely out of the control of everyone, such as the weather and how each individual will acclimatize to the altitude. Other factors such as logistics, food, equipment and leadership you are leaving up to ADG Inc.by joining a professionally guided team. The items you have complete control of and are entirely your responsibility to yourself and your team mates is your physical fitness and your climbing ability . It is imperative that everyone joining our mountaineering expedition be in a high standard of fitness when the expedition begins. The better condition you are in the more you will enjoy the trip, the safer it will be for you and the better the chance the expedition has of reaching the summit.The more climbing experience you have prior to the climb the more confident you will be about being ready.

The amount of time needed for training is completely dependent on the general level of fitness a person is in prior to the expedition. For the person that has spent the last ten years behind a desk with no emphasis on keeping in shape it may take two years to regain top physical ability. The person that has always prioritized conditioning and a rigorous workout as a part of their daily routine may only take a few months to fine tune for the demands of mountaineering.

When setting up your exercise regime consider that you will need to develop the endurance to carry a pack that weighs between 50 and 60 lbs. while pulling a sled uphill that weighs approximately 40 lbs. and wearing snowshoes for 6 to 12 hours per day. As you gain elevation, you will be carrying the same heavy pack on steep snow or ice, or be climbing on narrow ridges wearing crampons and descending the same terrain. You must develop the coordination and strength necessary to climb in balance at a reasonable pace under these conditions.

Though it is impossible to "train" for altitude, you should put yourself on a conditioning program that will best prepare you for this type of physical stress. After many years of observing climbers, there are some reoccurring training schemes that seem to help some people be better prepared than others.

1) Train for developing stamina. Run, bike, ski, fast walk, and climb. Train on irregular terrain in soft sand and snow. Vary your routine to prevent overuse injuries and push yourself without injuring yourself. Remember to do warm up and cool down stretches.

2) Upper body strength cannot be ignored. Building camps requires a tremendous amount of shoveling snow and cutting and hauling snow blocks.

3) Progressive resistance weight training. This type of training improves anaerobic metabolism that feeds much of muscular work.

4) Train on hills or stairs with a pack on. You must be prepared for 23,000 ft. of climbing uphill, including carries, wearing a 50 - 60 lb. pack and 23,000 ft. of descending. Start with a light pack and gradually increase the weight. Never run with a pack on.

5) Wear 2 lb. ankle weights to help condition for the extra weight of climbing boots, snowshoes and soft snow. (Don't wear these while running)

6) Train as often as possible by climbing, skiing, snowshoeing or hiking all day , weekend or longer trips. Get off the sidewalks and out of the gym!!! Conditioning by climbing is the best thing you can do. Get comfortable moving in mountainous terrain all day long!!! The heavy packs tend to tire climbers the most. Be prepared by training months ahead of time and you'll do fine. Don't expect to get used to wearing a pack while you are on the expedition. Learn to climb with a pack on at a steady pace. It cannot be stressed enough how critical it is at altitude to keep a steady pace rather than starting, stopping, starting. You must learn to breathe deeply and calmly while exercising.

7) One can't leave out being mentally prepared for the expedition. Read everything you can get your hands on about your climb - there is much available. Have a realistic view of what this climb entails by talking to people that have been on Denali. Know before you start the climb and accept the fact that at times you will be uncomfortable and that your body is going to be uncooperative. You are going to have_to push yourself. If you don't have the ability to do this you won't be successful. You may be in a cramped snow cave or tent for many storm days (9 days is our record) in very close contact with other people. You are leaving the comfort and privacy of home in order to experience a unique challenge in a remarkable environment. You must also be well enough "in tune" with yourself to know the difference between pushing yourself and acute mountain sickness, pulmonary or cerebral edema. These are all serious altitude related problems which must be acknowledged. It is possible to "push yourself" too far.

8) A good diet cannot be underestimated. Research a diet that will help develop stamina and strength and that you can live with. There are lots of books and articles that will get you started or consult a professional nutritionist that has worked with athletes. This type of training can easily take two hours per day, 5 days a week. Be committed to it and be consistent. It will pay off many times over!

We want to stress that you must get out and do the "real thing" in order to be ready to climb Denali. Scramble up peaks, go snow and ice climbing, go on hard multi day backpacking trips and take multi day winter ski or snowshoe trips. You can not prepare for this expedition in your office or solely by training indoors.

For the safety of the team, the chief guide will make all final decisions on who needs a rest day, who continues to ascend or who descends. Anyone unable to carry their own pack plus their share of the community gear, participate in camp chores or keep the group pace will have to, for the safety of the team, descend to base camp. It is well worth the time to train seriously!!

We hope this gives you ideas on which to base your training schedule. Set up a conditioning program that you can incorporate into your daily routine which will meet these goals. Start today with your training and keep it up. Good luck and please call if you have any questions.

RECOMMENDED READING
To help you become familiar with Denali, we highly recommend reading "Denali's West Buttress" by Colby Coombs, "Mt. McKinley, The Pioneer Climbs" by Terris Moore, "The Ascent of Denali" by Hudson Stuck, "Surviving Denali" and "High Alaska" by Jonathan Waterman, "Minus 148" by Art Davidson, "Mountain Sickness" by Dr. Peter Hackett, "Freedom of the Hills" by the Seattle Mountaineers, "Climbing Ice" by Yvon Chouinard, "Backcountry Ski Book" by Allen O'Bannon, "Snow and Ice Climbing" by John Barry, "To The Top Of Denali" by Bill Sherwonit, "Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue" by Andy Selters and "Mt. McKinley" by Bradford Washburn

LOGISTICS
Most people arrive in Talkeetna on the ADG, Inc. van. You will be spending the first night of the trip in Talkeetna. Please make reservations for accommodations for the first night . We recommend staying at Chinook Winds cabin rental next door to ADG,Inc. The cabins sleep 3 - 4 people and they have reserved 3 cabins for our teams. You will receive information about all the lodging options after we receive your deposit. The cabins and hotels need your credit card number so it is best if you give them a call.

Climbing conditions and weather will dictate your actual return date. Arrangement will be made in Talkeetna for post trip accommodations and return transportation to Anchorage. We recommend that you make your return airline reservation with 3 days leeway after the finish date of the expedition. If weather or river crossings keeps the team from getting to Wonder Lake as scheduled you can eliminate problems with missing flights. If we do get out as scheduled you can usually fly standby if you wish to return home immediately.

TRAVEL INSURANCE
We recommend that you buy trip cancellation insurance immediately after paying your deposit. This insurance can protect you if you are unable to join the expedition for personal or family medical reasons. One company that sells this type of insurance is Access America at phone # 800-284-8300 or check with your travel agent. ADG, Inc. is not responsible for your choice of whom to buy insurance through or if you choose to buy it at all. We cannot refund either your deposit or final payment. Please carefully read the reservation and payment policy in our 2001 schedule.

STORAGE
ADG, Inc. has a storage area for leaving extra gear that you will not need on the trip. Please mark all your bags with your name. If you drive a vehicle to Talkeetna, you can leave it at ADG, Inc. or at the air taxi service parking area.

HOW TO APPLY
The easiest way to apply for an expedition is to submit an application directly from our web site. We can also email, fax or mail you an application. Please return the completed application to us. Your application will be reviewed by Brian and Diane Okonek, Directors and one of them will contact you by phone to discuss the expedition. After being accepted as a team member we must receive a deposit before reserving a position for you on the expedition. We will then send you a complete packet of detailed information relevant to team members.

We wish to work closely with every expedition member. If there is any aspect of the expedition that you need clarification on we would be pleased to talk with you on the phone or email.

Phone: 907-733-2649
Email: adg@alaska.net
home page: www.alaska.net/~adg

TRAVERSE EQUIPMENT LIST

To participate on an expedition it is required that you have all of the equipment listed below. Upon receiving your deposit we will send you a detailed equipment list with explanations, gear recommendations, and addresses of equipment dealers.
* rental equipment available

FEET
Socks - 3 complete changes
Boots - double plastic mountaineering boots
Overboots - full coverage of foot and sole
Booties - down or polarguard
Gaitors
LOWER BODY
Polypropylene or nylon briefs - 3 pair
Lightweight polypropylene or capilene long underwear - 2 pair
Expedition weight polypropylene or capilene long underwear - 1 pair
*Insulated overpants
Gortex pants or bibs with full length side zips
UPPER BODY
Lightweight polypropylene or capilene turtleneck shirt - 2
Expedition weight polypropylene or capilene shirt - 1
Pile or bunting jacket
Gortex parka with hood
*Expedition down or PolarGuard parka with hood
Neck Gaitor
HANDS
Mittens, wool Dachstein or pile - 2 pair
Gloves, expedition weight capilene - 2 pair
Gortex or nylon mitten wind shells - 1 pair
*Insulated overmitts - 1 pair
HEAD
Ski hat
Balaclava
Sun visor or baseball cap
SLEEPING GEAR
Down or PolarGuard sleeping bag
OR combination inner and outer bag comfortable to - 30 degrees F.
*Pads - 2 close-cell foam pads OR 1 foam pad and 1 Therm-a-Rest pad
Compression stuff sack
PACK
*Pack with 6500 cubic inches capacity - internal or external frame
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
*Ascender - 1
*Seat and chest harness
*Crampons - must fit with overboots (strap-on style are best)
*Locking carabiners - 2 D and 3 pear shaped
*Regular carabiners - 10
*Ice axe
*Gear sling
Perlon rope 6mm - 40 ft . / tubular webbing 11/16" - 8 ft / Tubular webbing 1" - 8 ft.
GLACIER TRAVEL
* Snowshoes
Ski pole - 1 with removable basket if possible

PERSONALS
Accessory straps and side pockets
Baby wipes - 24
Bandana, cotton
Bowl, cup and spoon (large)
Butane lighter
Garbage plastic bags, heavy duty - 3
Insect repellent, 1 and mosquito head net
Nylon cord - 15 ft.
Pee bottle - 1 liter
Pocket knife
Ski goggles - 1 pair
Skin moisturizer
Stuff sacks - 3, 8" x 15" for lunches
Stuff sack - 1 xlg. for storing gear in tent
Sled bag - nylon duffel bag approx. 16" x 40"
Sun glasses - 2 pair with nose sun shield
Toilet paper
Tooth brush
Water bottles - 2 wide mouth one liter
FOOD
Drinks for 25 days (ADG provides soup)
Hard candy
Lunch treats, 3 - 1 lb. packages(ADG provides a substantial lunch)
Spice kit for dinners
MEDICAL
Antibiotic - 1 cycle (prescription)
Aspirin - 40 tablets
Decadron - 8, 4 mg. tablets (prescription)
Diamox - 10, 250 mg. (prescription)
Tylenol 3 - 8 tablets (prescription)
Moleskin - and tape for blisters
Sunscreen - high ultra-violet block for lips and face
OPTIONAL
Book
Camera and film
Crazy Creek chair
Foot powder
Ear plugs and eye covers
Journal and pen
Thermos

ALASKA-DENALI GUIDING, INC. RENTALS - price is for one Denali expedition.

PLEASE PAY FOR RENTALS WITH A CHECK, MONEY ORDER OR CASH IN TALKEETNA.
MARK ALL EQUIPMENT (ESPECIALLY CARABINERS) WITH PERSONAL IDENTIFICATION.
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Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc.
P.O. Box 566 Talkeetna, Alaska 99676 (907) 733-2649 Fax (907) 733-1362
Updated 2/14/00